August is just a couple of days and we can’t wait, Summer of Surf is enjoying some great weather and really fun summer waves. Sunscreen has been the word of the day! ‘Re-Apply’ is what we are all living by, Zinc Is Our Friend! 

I had a discussion the other day about surfing being just a phase…when you grow-up and get on with real life it (Surfing) will just fade from your memory leaving a warm spot in your heart. I almost swallowed my tongue in response to my friend’s view of Surfing, I didn’t even know what to say, but it did spark my curiosity, is Surfing just a passing thing, will I someday move on, will it just be a fond memory…ARE YOU KIDDING ME?!?!?!?!

 I have been in and around the ocean for over 5-decades, I cannot even imagine a life without ‘my’ ocean, yes I have traveled and lived in other areas that don’t even have an ocean, but, I ALWAYS came home to the ocean.

I understand that life can take you on a variety of paths and journeys that you may not always be able to surf, but do those changes make you a Surfer no longer? I don’t think so; I am going to prescribe to the theory ‘once a surfer, always a surfer.’ You may not surf as often, you may have had to re-locate due to life’s demands, but you are still a Surfer. Once the ocean gets into your soul…you are hooked I believe. 

As Jacques Cousteau said…”The Sea, once it casts it’s spell, holds one in its net of wonder.’

 Our ocean is a vast world of its own, with so many unanswered questions and challenges, that is what makes it so fantastic, the ocean is still a mostly unexplored region, even in this day and age of so much technology, the ocean remains a mystery to be discovered. How exciting is that? A mostly undiscovered adventure awaits us right here on Planet Earth! 

So, if you stopped surfing, or re-located, or just don’t get ‘out there’ as often, that does NOT mean you are no longer a Surfer. Once a Surfer, always a Surfer, it is a relationship with the ocean that stays with you forever and once you have it, there is no turning your back on the experience, Surfing has become part of you, a relationship that will always remain a source of fond memories and the desire to paddle out even ‘just once more.’ There is an old-school phrase that will forever fit…’Only a Surfer knows the feeling.’


‘They say the sea is cold, but the sea contains the hottest blood of all,

and the wildest, the most urgent.”

Whales Weep Not!

D.H. Lawrence, 1885-1930


Stretching before heading out...

Stretching before heading out...